The road journal · history

Where do nems really come from?Nems, origin Vietnam: the story of a roll that became a star in France

Nems are on every Asian menu in France, yet their story is far more Vietnamese — and more French — than you'd think.

  • 2names: nem rán, chả giò
  • 1rice paper wrapper
  • 20thcentury: the trip to France

First, a question of words

One word, several rolls: nem, nem rán, chả giò

“Nem”, a broader word in Vietnam

In Vietnam, nem covers a family of pork preparations, like fermented nem chua or grilled nem nướng.

Nem rán in the north, chả giò in the south

Same family, two names, with variations from region to region and family to family.

Why France kept “nem”

Early contacts went largely through the north and Hanoi, so the northern word likely took hold.

Wondering how it differs from the fresh roll? Read nem or spring roll, fried or fresh?

Illustration of golden nems served with lettuce, fresh herbs and dipping sauce
The nem — one word, many rolls
Illustration of Southeast Asian culinary specialities, between rice fields and feast dishes
The roots — a rice craft

The roots

A feast dish before a street dish

Rice paper (bánh tráng), a rice-growing craft

Steamed, sun-dried rice paper gives the fried nem its blistered surface.

The nem of Tết and big family tables

Rolling takes time, so nem rán belonged to feasts and family gatherings.

Possible influences, with caution

China has its own wheat spring rolls; a kinship is often mentioned, but sources differ.

See also Cambodian vs Vietnamese cuisine.

Inside the roll

What the “historic” nem contained

A few simple ingredients, and a clever logic.

From family dish to street food

Why the nemis eaten by hand

Born on feast tables, it ended up in passers-by's hands.

  1. A hand holding a kraft takeaway bag in front of a lantern-lit Asian restaurant
    01

    A portable, crunchy format that travels well

    Small, closed, easy to hold and to carry.

  2. A street food stall lit by red lanterns in an alley at night
    02

    The nem on Vietnamese streets today

    Sold at stalls, often on a vermicelli bowl.

  3. A customer pointing at the chalkboard of a busy lantern-lit Asian restaurant
    03

    And in France, at the counter

    Eaten on the go, shared standing up.

Crunchy, portable, shared.味わう道

At Asian Road

The nem on the road of flavours

“Rolled, then fried to golden perfection.”

At 9 rue Laurent Fauchier, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, the Crispy Road serves two nems, by four pieces, to take away or eat in:

Not a Hanoi grandmother's recipe, but the same handheld crunch.

Details on the Crispy Road nems page.

Its fellow traveller: the other Crispy Road voyager.

Explore Asian Road's Vietnam world.

See the Crispy Road

The Asian Road dining room with neon, red lanterns and its counter
The counter — where nems turn golden

FAQ

The origin of nems, in questions

The neon wall and illustrated posters of the Asian Road dining room
The wall — neon of the road

Further reading

The rest of the journey

Taste the next leg: the Crispy Road nems await you at 9 rue Laurent Fauchier, to take away or eat in.

The Crispy Road nems

The roll at the counter: nems, origin Vietnam

Keep on the road