The road journal · the bite

How to eat nems:lettuce, herbs, sauce, and above all right away

A nem is eaten hot, with your fingers, wrapped in lettuce and dipped in a clear sauce. Here is the Vietnamese way.

  • 1lettuce leaf around it
  • 2fingers, no knife
  • 3textures in one bite

Before the first bite

The nem, a roll best eaten hot

Called nem rán in northern Vietnam and chả giò in the south, the nem is a small roll with a minced filling, fried until golden. Its crispness is fragile, so timing matters.

Illustration of golden nems and fresh rolls side by side with herbs
The nem — golden, blistered, piping hot

The full bite

The four elements of a good nem bite

In Vietnam the nem never travels alone: lettuce, herbs and sauce each play a role.

Hot and fresh, rich and tangy: that balance is the whole point.

Three ways

By hand, with chopsticksor on the go

The setting changes, the essentials don't: hot, wrapped, dipped.

  1. A street food stall lit by red lanterns in an alley at night
    01

    By hand, in the alley

    At street stalls, nems are eaten with the fingers, lettuce as a plate.

  2. A customer pointing at the chalkboard in a lantern-lit restaurant
    02

    With chopsticks, at the table

    Chopsticks are fine: grip the middle, never spear it.

  3. A hand holding a kraft takeaway bag in front of a lantern-lit restaurant
    03

    On the go, takeaway

    Open the box quickly so steam escapes and the crunch holds.

Hot, wrapped, dipped: the rest is just location.味わう道

What to avoid

Mistakes that spoil a nem

A few common habits turn a crisp nem soft.

The Asian Road dining room with red neon, lanterns and its counter
The counter — where the nems turn golden

At the Asian Road counter

Here, the nems come out golden

“Rolled, then fried to golden perfection.”

At 9 rue Laurent Fauchier in central Aix-en-Provence, our nems belong to the Crispy Road: chicken nems and veggie nems.

The full crispy range is on the page our nems in Aix-en-Provence.

See our nems

FAQ

Eating nems, made simple

Further reading

More from the journal

The nem is just one stop on the road. The rest of the journey is in the journal.

blog cuisine asie du sud-est

Keep on the road

The neon wall and illustrated posters of the Asian Road dining room
The wall — neon of the road