The road journal · the roll

Nem vs spring roll:fried or fresh, two rolls, two worlds

Same rice paper, same rolling gesture, yet everything sets them apart: one comes out of the oil golden and crispy, the other is eaten raw, fresh and translucent.

  • 1rice paper to start
  • 2opposite cooking methods
  • 0frying for the fresh roll

Origins

The nem, a roll made for frying

Called “nem rán” in northern Vietnam and “chả giò” in the south, the nem is a filling rolled in thin wrapper and fried until golden — a festive dish made to share.

Illustration of golden nems served with lettuce and fresh herbs
The nem — golden, hot, crispy

The same sheet

Rice paper, one sheet, two fates

Both rolls often use the same rice paper. Three steps make all the difference.

Nems are sometimes rolled in wheat wrappers; fresh rolls almost always stay with rice paper.

At the street counter

Three scenesto tell them apart at a glance

In Southeast Asian night markets, you hear the nem and you see the fresh roll.

  1. A street food stall lit by red lanterns in a night alley
    01

    The sizzle of oil

    If it sizzles, it's a nem. The fresh roll is made in silence.

  2. A customer pointing at the chalkboard menu in a lantern-lit restaurant
    02

    The colour on display

    Golden and bumpy for the nem; pale and see-through for the fresh roll.

  3. A hand holding a kraft takeaway bag in front of a lantern-lit restaurant
    03

    The trip home

    The nem is best eaten right away; the fresh roll keeps better, cool.

Fried and hot on one side, raw and fresh on the other.味わう道

The naming puzzle

Nem, chả giò, gỏi cuốn, spring roll: who's who?

The confusion comes from words as much as plates.

The Asian Road dining room with red neon, lanterns and counter
The counter — where the nems turn golden

At the Asian Road counter

Here, the nem does the crunching

“Rolled, then fried to golden perfection.”

At 9 rue Laurent Fauchier, the nem sits on the Crispy Road line: chicken nems and veggie nems, on their own or next to your box.

Everything about them is on the page our nems in Aix-en-Provence.

See our nems

FAQ

Nem and spring roll, explained

Go further

More from the journal

The wok, sticky rice, each country's specialities: the rest of the trip is in the journal.

blog cuisine asie du sud-est

Keep on the road

The neon wall and illustrated posters of the Asian Road dining room
The wall — neons of the road